Tunisian fish tagine – redux
October 23, 2010
Since arriving in Istanbul, I’ve realised what a huge difference the provenance of ingredients makes to the flavour of a dish. I’ve always been aware of this, obviously – especially when I was lucky enough to be living five minutes’ walk from Borough Market. But it really hit home this week when I made a Tunisian fish tagine, which I first tried back in London earlier this year.
The recipe (by good old Claudia Roden again) has quince as one of the vegetables, but as I hadn’t been able to get hold of any, I had left them out. I had also used mackerel the first time, which, after eating the same dish this week with lip-smackingly fresh sea bass, I realised was completely wrong.
This time, I used the right fish and the right vegetables – bar one. As I couldn’t find the required turnip here in Istanbul, I picked up something that looked remarkably similar…
No, your eyes do not deceive you – that is a radish. And yes, it’s the size of a baby’s head. I don’t know what it is with Turkey and improbably large vegetables, but sometimes I feel like I’m in that Woody Allen film Sleeper, when he discovers the giant vegetable patch.
Anyway, back to the business of cooking…
I simmered all the vegetables – onions, carrots, green peppers and radish/turnip, plus a tin of cooked chickpeas and the heads and tails of the fish in water. Although the recipe didn’t ask for it, I also bunged in a couple of bay leaves and a sprinkling of pul biber.
The stock was left to cook for an hour or so, until all the vegetables were really soft, and the fishy flavours beautifully melded. Then I removed the heads and tails, added the whole sea bass and the sliced quince, and simmered for another half an hour.
Another item this dish is supposed to have, but doesn’t seem to be easy to find here, is couscous. So, instead we had some amazing Turkish flatbread called gözleme, which was stuffed with chopped walnuts.
The bread was a spur of the moment buy, but went so well with the sweetly delicate flavours of the tagine, Suleyman and I agreed, it was a culinary match made in heaven.
And the cupboard was bare… 
October 24, 2010 at 7:33 am
Am really surprised you have difficulty finding couscous. Thought it was endemic to the whole Mediterranean area.
Must circulate this recipe – quince being everywhere here at the moment – even left in boxes at the roadside with notices saying “Help yourself”
October 26, 2010 at 11:30 am
I have never had quince! I’d love to try it… I must keep my eyes open at farm shops and farmers’ markets.
October 26, 2010 at 4:16 pm
There are masses of recipes for quince, because the tree fruits very well and the fruit are huge. The only problem is that it has to be cooked – inedible raw. It is an attractive tree and will bear fruit very quickly, so worth having in the garden.